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University of Graz Liminalwater Blog Blog Archive Rijeka Waterscapes – (Non-)Field-report
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Rijeka Waterscapes – (Non-)Field-report

Field Notes

I promised to write a field report reflecting on our preparations for the upcoming exhibition in Graz, as well as on several exciting theatre projects in Rijeka connected to the river Rječina. I planned to travel to Rijeka at the end of March to attend the festival dedicated to the river Rječina and to see the latest project by the theatre collective Igralke. As is often the case with fieldwork, however, events did not proceed as planned, and I will return to this at the end of the report.

A busy port with large cranes, a docked ship, and industrial buildings against a clear blue sky. Cars are parked nearby, suggesting an active area. ©Milka Car
©Milka Car
Rijeka, port
A marina under a clear blue sky with several sailboats docked. Tall masts create a vertical pattern. Potted plants and bollards line the walkway. ©Milka Car
©Milka Car
Rijeka, port

Before that, a few words about the collective itself. What makes Igralke particularly interesting, apart from being based in Rijeka? Their work operates at the intersection of art and everyday life, within the broader field of socially engaged and community-based artistic practices, including elements of documentary theatre. More about their work can be found on their website. Recently, Igralke have gained recognition for performances such as Bakice (2020) and Crna vuna (2022), both of which explore social realities through collaborative and research-based processes. Their current project, however, shifts focus to ecological concerns, as did Plastika fantastika, one of their first projects. Here, the emphasis is on the crisis of aquatic ecosystems and the ways in which these are perceived and represented. The performance traces the course of the River Rječina, beginning at its confluence with the Mrtvi kanal. Titled Safari Tour, the project unfolds as a performative journey in search of the river’s “lost wilderness.” In doing so, Igralke continue and expand their collaboration with the organisation Urbani separe, whose work centres on critical urban walks and participatory explorations of space. Together, they develop formats that invite participants to rediscover the region’s cultural landscape, including its post-industrial heritage, while reflecting on the possibilities of coexistence between human and non-human life in the Karst environment. At the same time, these walks express a certain nostalgia, or longing for past landscapes, paired with an urgent awareness of the need to preserve fragile aquatic habitats for future generations.

Boats docked along a calm waterfront, bordered by historic buildings under a partly cloudy sky. The scene conveys a serene, picturesque ambiance. ©Milka Car
©Milka Car
Mrtvi kanal, Rijeka

This performance – a guided walk along the Rječina River – has already taken place twice: first in September 2024, as part of the celebrations for the proposed Ričina Nature Park, and again in February 2025 during the carnival season. Emerging from a collaboration between the theatre collective Igralke and the Kamenjak Mountaineering Club, the project positions itself at the intersection of performative practice and situated environmental engagement, taking the form of choreographed urban walks. This mode of collectively conceived theatre resonates with ongoing debates in the environmental humanities, which I discussed at a conference drawing on Kate Rigby’s theses on eco-social imperilment, highlighting the entanglement of ecological vulnerability. This text is currently under review and, pending a favourable outcome, will be published as a scientific work.

A new iteration of the walk along the Ričina is currently being prepared. In this context, I spoke via Zoom with Vanda Velagić, an actress and member of the Igralke collective, about the evolving dramaturgy of the project. Collaboration with the Urbani separe association continues to play a crucial role. Their work in supporting the Ričina Nature Park initiative interweaves hydrological phenomena with questions of socio-historical development and contemporary ecological challenges, framing the river as both a natural and cultural archive. As the Urbani safari describes it, the Ričina (or Rječina) is “a karst spring connected to Slovenia and Italy, the largest water protection area in the region, and the only nature park with its own language.” Extending across more than 850 hectares, the Rječina basin is home to approximately 3,000 inhabitants, alongside a rich diversity of plant and animal life. It is a landscape shaped by a delicate balance and threatened by human influence.

By emphasising the interdependence of human intervention and ecological preservation, these initiatives build on earlier artistic and activist practices. One important example is the work of Iva Korbar, who in 2020 launched the platform Love for Ričina in collaboration with the Balkan River Defence collective and has been instrumental in shaping public awareness. Her activism opposes the construction of a 60-metre dam for the proposed Kukuljani Reservoir, a project that would irreversibly alter the river’s source and flow. Through performances, workshops, and educational events in Rijeka, Korbar advocates for the preservation of the Ričina as a living, flowing ecosystem, as documented on her website. We decided to meet in Zagreb, where we walked together through Maksimir Park, speaking about water, trees, and literary imaginaries of scarcity.

A serene pond reflects a blue sky and bare trees on a sunny day. Shadows of people and trees stretch over lush grass, evoking a tranquil atmosphere. ©Milka Car
©Milka Car
Maksimir Park

We also talked about the Croatian writer Vladimir Nazor, particularly his novella Voda (Water, 1927), which evokes an insular world shaped by drought and the fragility of water resources. Such literary echoes extend the project’s scope beyond the immediate locality, situating it within broader cultural histories of water and its absence. As part of the exhibition project in Graz, selected elements of Korbar’s work will be presented as art in the Hydrocene, further tracing the translocal currents through which the Ričina continues to flow – both materially and imaginatively.

In the previously mentioned conversation with Vanda Velagić via Zoom, I learned that the collective’s next theatre project will focus on the port of Rijeka. Currently titled Čvor (Knot), the project was originally conceived as an exploration of the processes of gentrification and touristification reshaping the city’s waterfront. An earlier concept, provisionally called Two Ships, staged a symbolic encounter between a fishing boat and a cruise ship. Their meeting point, the port of Rijeka, was intended to serve as a site of tension between traditional maritime livelihoods and the expanding infrastructures of global tourism, particularly in light of plans for a new port to accommodate large cruise liners. Yet, as is often the case in port cities where geopolitical and economic currents intersect, the project’s trajectory shifted. Instead of tourist expansion, the port is now subject to processes of militarisation. In response, the Igralke collective has begun to reorient its work towards the theme of remilitarisation, tracing how shifting global dynamics are inscribed in local spatial practices and imaginaries.

My intention had been to pursue this line of inquiry further during the festival in Rijeka, following the development of this collaboratively conceived theatre and documenting it as part of an ongoing research project. Fieldwork, however, once again resisted planning. At the end of March, Zagreb was struck by a severe storm of unusual intensity. Classes were cancelled, and it was only by a fortunate convergence of circumstances that no lives were lost. The aftermath made the disruption tangible. Images from Maksimir Park, where only two weeks earlier I had walked with Iva Korbar through a seemingly tranquil landscape, now revealed scenes of devastation: uprooted trees, fractured pathways, and a park fundamentally altered.

A person walks along a sunlit forest path, surrounded by fallen branches and lush green trees under a clear blue sky, conveying a peaceful, serene mood. ©Milka Car
©Milka Car
Maksimir Park after storm

The fragility of ecological and urban infrastructures became starkly visible. In this sense, the performative practices I had set out to observe, understood as both critical imitations of social practices and as social practices in their own right, were unexpectedly mirrored by the conditions that prevented my participation. Climate change intervened not only as a thematic concern but as a material force, disrupting the very possibility of fieldwork. Unable to travel, I had to rely on second-hand accounts of the festival’sunfolding. Reports indicate that, contrary to initial plans, the events did not take place along the river Ričina itself but were relocated to an enclosed space, another telling displacement of the river from lived, embodied experience.

 

Author: Milka Car

Date: 6.4.2026

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